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This 11-mile one way loop road through Cades Cove provides spectacular views as well as peaceful meadows.
Article and Photos by: Steve Blume, Tiffin Ambassador
It’s a crisp October morning and we’re trying to get to Cades Cove early. Wildlife is more active near dawn and dusk and the loop is less crowded. Last night we watched a bear sniffing around behind our Tiffin, so we looked both ways this morning before stepping out to the car. We are staying at an RV resort in Townsend, TN literally at the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park entrance. From here it is a beautiful twenty-minute drive through the park to Cades Cove.
Cades Cove is my happy place, a scenic valley nestled in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This drive to it is part of the experience, not a “hurry up and get there.” You’re in the park, a winding two-lane road with a roaring rock-filled river on one side and a mature forest on both. There are several pull offs next to inconspicuous signs that say, “Quiet Walkway,” easy trails only ¼ to ½ mile that still immerse you in nature. Bear sightings are not uncommon along the road here, so we keep watch to avoid hitting them.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park does not charge an admission fee but does require a parking pass for vehicles to be displayed on your dash. You can purchase and print these from recreation.gov or from the terminal at the entrance to Cades Cove. It is only $5 per day, $15 per week or $40 per year, plus it supports the park. The Cades Cove loop is an 11-mile one-way road that takes you through lush meadows, rolling hills, and abundant wildlife. Our plan is perfect, with a few cars ahead and an early morning sunray display lighting up the blankets of fog.
Spectacular mountains rise beyond the massive natural meadows that seem to go on forever. As you creep along, the meandering road continuously moves in and out of the forest and opens up to a new meadow on the other side. Yes, it’s brisk, but the windows are down, and the sunroof is open to hear the sounds of nature – birds, flowing water, breaking branches or rustling leaves. Earlier we heard bears scurrying down a tree before we actually saw them. In front of us, everyone is stopped. No doubt it’s a “bear jam,” as everyone hopes to get a photo to share. Deer graze along the edges and are often joined by a flock of turkeys clucking as they search for bugs. Trailheads for popular hikes such as Abrams Falls are clearly marked.
Leave your watch at home. The 11-mile drive is mostly leisurely but can sometimes become bumper to bumper. Bikers ride in the line with cars or zip around to the front to see the holdup. Once while doing this, I almost ran head on into a bear on the side of the road while pulling two grandsons in a kid trailer behind me. We were all quite surprised! Most riders are on eBikes and easily keep pace in the line of cars. Wednesdays are vehicle free days from May 1 to September 25 and excellent for biking. Many pickup trucks have riders in the back, sitting in lawn chairs and covered with blankets.
The Cherokee were here first, leaving the cove with the name of their leader, Chief Kade. John Oliver arrived in 1818 and was the first permanent settler in Cades Cove. By the 1850’s the population had grown to over 650 people. When the national park was being created in the 1920’s, residents fought the government bitterly to keep their pristine valley, but eventually lost.
As visitors, we have a glimpse into the region’s history with the log cabins, churches, and other structures from the 19th century preserved and welcoming explorers, providing us with a sense of what life was like for early Appalachian settlers. These are great stopping places along the loop to get out of the car and poke around.
As we reach the end of our 11-mile ride, the Cades Cove Campground is at the end of our loop, almost back to our starting point. Let’s stop by the general store for more coffee! Besides, we have been without cell coverage all day and you can get a Wi-Fi signal behind the store. The campground is all dry camping, booked on recreation.gov. There are a few big rig friendly sites and a loop where generators are allowed.
Leaving the campground’s general store, we decide to take the first turn into the Cades Cove Picnic Area. The river flows right through it, with permanent picnic tables all in just the right spot. Oh, the peaceful sound of that water! There are also restrooms here. We decide to hike the short trail at the back of the picnic area, which gets you into the woods for an easy walk.
There is no doubt in my mind I have logged several thousand miles in Cades Cove over the years driving, biking, hiking and running this loop. I have witnessed sunrises, sunsets, misty mornings with fog, snow and rain. After completing the loop, it’s not unusual to look at each other and ask, “Again?”
“The Peaceful Side of the Smokies” refers to the quiet, slower area around Townsend when compared to its two well-known neighbors, Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. Pigeon Forge is a huge playground for vacationing families, with Dollywood, go kart racing, dinner shows and a host of other rides and activities. It’s glitzy and non-stop, except for the massive traffic that backs up for miles. There are several beautiful RV resorts there, so an excellent place to park your Tiffin if that is your preference. Gatlinburg sits 15 minutes from Pigeon Forge, but traffic and parking remain a challenge, especially trying to get from one end of town to the other. I avoid traffic whenever possible, so we usually choose to stay in Townsend closest to our beloved Cades Cove and drive over to visit our neighboring cities.
Driving these curvy mountain roads is more about time than miles. As I mentioned earlier, from Townsend to the Cades Cove entrance is only a 20-minute drive through the park. Gatlinburg to Cades Cove is a 60-minute drive and Pigeon Forge to Cades Cove is a 55-minute drive. My point is, if you want to spend more time in Cades Cove and avoid traffic, consider trying the Townsend area. Townsend to Pigeon Forge is a 35-minute drive, and Townsend to Gatlinburg is 45 minutes.
Due to location and amenities, our favorite campground is Little Arrow Outdoor Resort, located in Townsend across the street from the Great Smoky Mountains National Park entrance. Campfire smoke drifts through the trees all day, so it really feels like camping. The heated pool with waterfalls and hot tubs is always active on sunny days and a magnet for kids. Little Arrow is in high demand, so you need to book ahead, especially for river sites. In addition to RV sites, there are cabins and tiny homes for friends and family who want to enjoy the camping experience but have their own space. “People come back. About 50% of our guests have stayed with us before,” said Carmen Simphwe, CEO and co-owner. The KOA Great Smokies Holiday next door is another high demand option.
Townsend is full of things to do. Tubing the Little River is a must do adventure in warmer weather. The Townsend Greenway is a 5-mile paved path for bikers, walkers and runners that starts near Little River RV Resort and meanders through the entire length of central Townsend. The Little River Railroad Museum and the Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center Museum share the history and culture of this area. There are plenty of food options without the long waits of the nearby neighbors. The big porch at Peaceful Side Social is where we choose to end this relaxing carefree day. It has a large selection of local craft beers and tantalizing food options including tasty sandwiches, hand tossed sourdough pizza and roasted chicken. The sun soon fades and it’s time to return to our Tiffin for the evening, a short drive with no traffic at all. Ahhhhh.
Tomorrow’s a big day. We’re going back to Cades Cove!
Steve first lives it, then colorfully writes about it, especially his passion for the RV lifestyle. A retired entrepreneur, he and his wife spend half the year traveling the country in their Tiffin Allegro RED 38 KA and the other half at home in Brentwood, TN with family. Married for almost 50 years, once you meet them he and Nancy are easily remembered – he is 6’4″ and she is 4’7″. His articles on business, personal development, faith, fundraising and running have appeared in numerous newspapers and magazines over the years.
